That definitely looks like one or more of the three “BRT” lines are either disconnected and floating high, shorted together, or shorted to VCC. It causes whichever of the three red shades affected to be permanently on (whenever the pixel isn’t black), which is as bright as the LED can get.

I’m assuming you’ve tried reseating the cables as per this post, right? If not, it’s worth a try before you send them back to TheForce81. You might also want to make sure a wire didn’t get folded, shifted, or broken at the end.

Also – and I’m talking to everyone, not picking on freaka-zoid – if you’ve had someone solder your VB displays, you should contact him directly if you ever have a problem with them, rather than posting about it publicly. You’re bound to get better tech support from the technician who originally did the work, right? 😉

Nobody’s perfect (which is why neither TheForce81 nor myself charge for “retouching” displays that fail after being returned), and it’s a bit embarrassing to have your failures plastered all over the forum, no matter how rare they are.

Any time, my friend; I hope you get your screens fully de-wobbled 😉

He mentions that you can play in red, but I’m sure I saw images of it displaying red/green anaglyph (and perhaps even read about that option, somewhere). Is that only available from the RGB port, does he just not know how to enable that option, or were there different models with different capabilities?

Welcome to the forum, SB78!

Here’s the thread/post you were looking for:

http://www.planetvb.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=28999#forumpost28999

TheForce81 wrote:
Thanks for that nice schematic, though since my electronic schematics knowledge isn’t that up to snuff, what does this mean to you considering inputting 10DC or 10AC?

Exactly as I explained before: the diode is there for reverse-polarity protection and also serves as a half-wave rectifier.

If you connect an adapter providing DC (with the negative on the center contact of the plug), it will forward bias the diode and you’ll get about 0.7v less than the input voltage (due to the diode’s voltage drop).

If the center of the plug is positive, the diode will prevent any current flow, and the VB won’t run.

If you input AC, the diode will only let half the wave through, so you’ll end up with pulsating DC at about 0.32 times the input voltage (or 0.45 times the RMS voltage) at the VB.

Since the VB needs a minimum of 6V, your adapter should, ideally, be providing at least 13.33Vrms. If you do the math with 10VAC, you only get what you measured with the meter set to DC: about 4.8V. I can’t account for why the VB still operates, other than to say that these are unregulated adapters we’re talking about, so the actual voltage can swing quite a bit, depending on the load they’re driving.

The main take-away from all this is that the VB is not picky at all concerning what adapter you power it from. The range of voltages seems to be even larger than what is printed on the VB (although I wouldn’t go too high). The only thing that definitely won’t work is using one with a center-positive (positive-tip) plug (unless you rewire the tap ;-)).

That was the last piece of the puzzle, TheForce81! 🙂

Using that information, I made a schematic. Note: upon further consideration, I’ve decided that the green thing is, in fact, a resistor. Specifically, I believe it is a 1 ohm, “flameless” (i.e. it won’t produce a flame when it burns out due to over-current) resistor, and it is being used here as a fuse.

Attachments:

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   adapter-tap-schematic.png
   

[RunnerPack]

TheForce81 wrote:
You do not own an adapter tap 😉 ? How do you power your VB then?

I use a Performance adapter, mainly. I also have a custom “adapter tap” that a friend made for me.

Thanks for the pics, but without seeing the actual circuitry on the other side, I still have to speculate on what the components actually do. It does have a diode, so I’m not sure if it’s putting out AC or pulsing DC. Either one would still mess with the DC setting on a meter. I still don’t think the VB can directly handle AC, but half-wave rectified (pulsing) DC might work. It’s not very efficient, though.

The black thing on the left wrapped in copper wire is probably a 1:1 transformer used to filter out common-mode noise (which is something Nintendo also used inside the SNES). I think the green thing on the right that looks like a resistor is actually another inductor for additional noise filtering. The black, cylindrical thing with a white stripe is the aforementioned diode. It is probably there to protect against hooking up an adapter with the wrong polarity, and the partial rectification of AC is just a (possibly intentional) side-effect.

• This reply was modified 10 years, 11 months ago by RunnerPack.

TheForce81 wrote:
After opening up both taps, the electronics are the same for both, so it seems it doesn’t matter if you feed the VB AC or DC.

I don’t own either tap, so I can’t check. What do “the electronics” consist of? Is it a bridge-rectifier, one to four individual diode(s), or something else? AFAIK, diodes are the only way to convert AC or DC to DC with a given polarity. Could anyone post some photos?

After measuring the voltage, the DC adapter with the USA tap outputs 8.75 volts on the pins of the tap and the Japanese tap with the AC adapter outputs 4.85 volts. So I am not completely sure what is happening with this on the voltage regulator. It seems that there is some automatic switching going on to account for these differences.

I doubt that the internal regulator in the VB could operate on 4.85V DC. Besides, it says right on the VB that it requires at least 6V. Are you sure you’re not measuring AC with the DC setting on the meter? This will give a false reading. On the other hand, I don’t think the VB would be able to handle AC on the battery terminals, even at the right voltage – hence the rectifier(?) in the tap.

I like to use #000000, #550000, #AA0000, and #FF0000 (or, when the red gets to be a bit much, the greyscale versions of those ;-))

They’re evenly spaced across the 8-bit color space, and they also happen to be binary repetitions of the VB’s 2-bit pixel data:

[00]000000
[01]010101
[10]101010
[11]111111

(assuming the proper palette settings, etc. are used, of course; but let’s not get bogged down in unnecessary technical detail ;-)).

BTW, they equate to the decimal values 0, 85, 170, and 255, respectively.

“Assistive” technologies always carry a huge markup, since they’re usually paid for with insurance payouts, government grants, or court-awarded cash settlements.

You can buy the “bendy stuff” by itself for much less than that. The “leading brand” is LocLine, but you can probably get generic versions even more cheaply. You can also print it, if you have a 3D printer (e.g. searching Thingiverse for locline will get you dozens of hits). It would probably end up being more expensive, though. Better to get the real locline, and just print the end pieces to attach it to the VB and the clamp.

Speaking of clamps, you can get clamps like the one shown (or even better ones) for a buck or two each. Just drive a screw through the clamp and one of your “locline” bits, and there you go.

The tablet holder is the only special part, and it would be useless for a VB stand.

BTW, I just weighed my display-testing VB, which lacks the displays, the speaker inserts, and the audio amp board, and it weighed 1.7 lbs. It also had no visor attached or cart inserted.

haaze707 wrote:
Luckily hunterx was thinking about this coincidently, and has finished it, even with a b/w shader with in my opinion looks better. True 3D

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but that screen-shot is the same image displayed twice, so it’s 2D, not 3D :/

The GUI elements are quite distracting, too (and useless, since one would have to play with a USB or Bluetooth controller, anyway).

I can’t wait to see this working correctly (although I still have to build or buy a special cardboard viewer for my giant “phablet” 😛 )

Wyndcrosser wrote:
still looking for the right end to make the cable with, I can’t find a power socket that will work with the SNS-002 power adapter. Any ideas? My plan was to modify my current AC adapter.

I think the only places to find a female jack you can plug an SNS-002 into are SNES consoles and US adapter-taps.

The way I see it, you have three basic options:
1. Get a generic adapter with the very common 5.5×2.1mm barrel plug and use the matching jack on the cable.
2. Cut the plug off of your SNS-002 and use a mating pair of those barrel connectors.
3. Use any proper AC adapter and just hard-wire it into the cable.

I used option #1 on the ones I made.

Wyndcrosser wrote:
I’ve got the pinouts for both SNES and VB ready. From my understanding all I need is switch to control the power (GRD/BatteryPW on the pinout). Of course these would be connected to the power barrel jack as well. My question is, do I need any kind resistor or regulator when handling the power aspect of this setup?

The VB has an internal voltage regulator that can handle anything from 6-13VDC (I looked it up, this time! :-P), so you really don’t need any regulation if you have a reasonably stable voltage in that range. See the above discussion about power supplies to help you choose one, if you aren’t going with an SNES-compatible one.

vb-fan wrote:
PS — where does one get a “fiberglass brush”?

I recently (a month ago) purchased one of these, and, although they used “nylon” in the title, I actually received a fiberglass one. Actually, I asked the seller if he was selling fiberglass or nylon, and he said the “nylon” in the title was a mistake that he was going to fix… he obviously never fixed it, but I got an actual fiberglass brush, so it’s worth a try.

I recently worked on a display with a detached cable (not peeled off; it seems to have just fallen off :-?), and I was dreading it, but it was surprisingly easy to solder. Given what DogP mentioned above, it was probably easier than the “Z-tape” would be, and, just like soldering any display cable, it will no doubt last as long as the display and cable themselves with no clamping and whatnot needed.

Although, for the other products you mentioned, which involve attaching a cable to ITO-coated glass contacts, it’s probably a pretty good idea.

BTW, for cleaning the oxidation off of copper, I suggest a fiberglass scratch-brush. I don’t have any experience with Tinnit, but if your copper and its substrate are heat-proof, you could just tin it with a soldering iron and solder.

Relevant link: http://www.noodlevisions.com/?p=10

Summary: A guy swapped the CPU and flash from a US New 3DS XL into a Japanese New 3DS.

The place I work for probably has the stuff to do this, but I doubt if they’d ever let me do it…

I’ve been waiting for someone to tackle this for quite some time… Now that thunderstruck is on the case, I know the result is going to be top-notch 🙂 :thumpup:

I’m grateful to him for working on it, and also to everyone involved with the actual text translation.

I don’t own an oscilloscope, so take the following with a grain of salt. It’s just my own interpretation of the IntSys docs.

1. “the left LED array is powered from 4-6” and “the right LED array is powered from 8-10” (or vice versa).

2. The images are drawn consecutively, not concurrently. While one mirror swings left-to-right, its LED array is used to draw an image from its frame-buffer, and the other mirror is swinging right-to-left to get back into position to have its image drawn. This is the rising slope of the sine wave. The mirrors then turn around, and the process repeats with the two eyes swapped, during the falling slope of the sine wave. The first of your ASCII filmstrips is the most accurate depiction. This is the most logical assumption, since the counter-balancing effect of this arrangement would minimize vibration of the whole unit.

3. !SCANRDY (active-low or falling-edge) would be at both 4 and 8. L_SYNC is somewhere near 4, and R_SYNC is near 8 (or vice versa). I don’t know if they’re synchronized with !SCANRDY.

Anyone able to actually test any of the above should feel free to correct me.

Quick question: are these printed on Letter, A4, or some other size paper?

You don’t need a new emulator to pull this off. The video settings of Mednafen easily allow for this display mode. You’ll want to either make the image very small or sit well back from your monitor, though. The small maximum angular image size limit is the main limitation of the “wall-eyed” stereo viewing method, which is why I prefer the “cross-eyed” method when I free-view (which I rarely do anymore, now that I have a 3D-capable monitor).

As an aside, when I read the thread title, I thought you meant a VB emulator that renders its output as a SIRDS, which would be very difficult if not impossible, since (AFAIK) you can only generate those using a depth map, which is not how the VB stores depth information.