[KR155E]

A problem often encountered by Virtual Boy users are glitchy displays, leading to horizontal lines, reversed or generally distorted images, or even complete loss of display activity.

All those symptoms are usually caused by the ribbon cables connecting the LEDs to the motherboard becoming loose, or peeling away from the display PCB.

Fixing your Diplay: Oven method

DogP has come up with a way to fix the problem by opening the system up, removing the display, sticking it in the oven to re-melt the adhesive, and reassemble. It’s not a difficult procedure, except that the typical security bit can’t get to the deepest screws on the VB, so you either need a special screwdiver, a modified bit, or a modified screwdriver.

You can find a guide to fix your displays on DogP’s Project:VB.

Fixing your Diplay: Bypass method

Another way has been proposed by DanB. To permanently fix the problem, his idea was to replace the loosening ribbon cables with some better wires, which he soldered to the PCB. This solution requires much more skill, though, and should only be performed by solder experienced people with a steady hand and a huge portion of patience.

The complete guide can be found here.

Fixing your Diplay: New methods (RECOMMENDED)

Some more methods have recently been developed by DogP to permanently fix the cable problem (contrary to the probably non-permanent oven method): Thread.

• This topic was modified 15 years, 10 months ago by KR155E.

Just curious, has anyone ever tried using a magic eraser on the displays to expose the metal instead of a fiberglass pen or the NaOH solution? Don’t those things work like fine sandpaper

Hello everyone.

I found a video on You Tube that offers an easy way to fix and to even prevent the dreaded and apparently inevitable “glitch” problem.

Here is the link for the video.

At 3:10 he discusses the glitch problem. What he says that I found most useful is that if you have a glitchy display you can fix it by leaving your VB turned on for an ENTIRE DAY OR EVEN TWO. Keeping it turned on for that long can or even should fix the problem. The VB display he made is also really incredible.

thitherton schrieb:
Hello everyone.

I found a video on You Tube that offers an easy way to fix and to even prevent the dreaded and apparently inevitable “glitch” problem.

Here is the link for the video.

At 3:10 he discusses the glitch problem. What he says that I found most useful is that if you have a glitchy display you can fix it by leaving your VB turned on for an ENTIRE DAY OR EVEN TWO. Keeping it turned on for that long can or even should fix the problem. The VB display he made is also really incredible.

I like this guy and his channel, and he is an expert in making arcade cabinets and also repairing them, but some things he said regarding the glitchy display issue I cannot confirm and I own several Virtual Boys. Maybe when you are lucky it might help for some time in most cases the issue will come back.
BTW, as people are always having the same qustions about the Virtual Boy, I once made a beginners guide just in case that might be helpful for some Virtual Boy owners out there: http://youtu.be/j1-QOfFgr2w

when my glitch issue first showed up it always got better the longer i played. i just assumed the warming of the system was causing the glue to warm up as well, making a better contact. the problem is that this is not a fix for the problem. eventually it will get worse. soldering is the only permanent solution.

I just wanted to state that I did send my messed up displays to RunnerPack and he did a superb job in just a few days. Thank you by the way. I have a crystal clear view into the 3d world of vb now and a machine that does not have the status ‘must be repaired’ any more. Great, clean, fast work. Recommendation for repairs in europe defenitely given!

I second what fups said. RunnerPack did awesome work. Quick, great communication, and all around nice guy. And the service was so cheap. He is obviously doing it for the good of the VB community and not to get rich. I couldn’t believe the soldering job he did when I got them back. Popped them in and my VB was better than new. And for that Sir, I thank you.

Just wanted to say that RunnerPack did an amazing job with soldering the displays. Great communication, fast turnaround and they worked great as soon as I put them in. Really a solid member of the community and one who does great work. Thanks so much and I can’t recommend his services enough.

I can also say that I am very happy with my recent fix! RunnerPack is a great guy and my VB is now working again. I am the second owner of my unit, with the previous owner being one that I know took care of it, and although I have treated it kindly and it has been in the box when not in use, my unit failed as well. If you haven’t turned yours on in a while, give it a try. Likely it has or will go faulty so you should get the proper fix done while you can.

I’m just curious to know if anybody has gotten a Virtual Boy solder-fixed, or looked into getting a Virtual Boy solder-fixed, using this service:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pixeldust-Retro-Video-Game-Console-Refurbishing-Repair-and-Modification-/251462966306?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a8c5c5c22

They say they fix Virtual Boys but don’t really say how. This could be yet another option for people looking to pay someone else to get their Virtual Boys solder-fixed.

Hi Guys,

Not sure if someone has already suggested this but here we go anyway.

I noticed way back in the thread someone mentioned using bull dog clips or similar to clap down the ribbon cable after an oven repair.

I have found these ribbon cable clips on element 14 which should provide a much more secure and even pressure to the cables without interfering with the internal movement.

http://uk.farnell.com/pro-power/fc-40/clamp-ribbon-cable-30way/dp/1268997?ost=1268997&mckv=c8tKOIJi%7Cpcrid%7C69480985509%7Cplid%7C&CMP=KNC-GUK-FUK-GEN-SHOPPING-PRO_POWER&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=CK_A6tCIqMYCFYzMtAod7b8CcA&CAWELAID=120173390000020720&gross_price=true

Adding some thin foam of padding either side of the clip can also help to secure the clip and ensure it’s applying even pressure.

Hopefully this will help someone out 🙂

I’m thing I need one of my VBs fixed. I’m starting to see some horizontal lines. It’s doesn’t happen all the time. It really shows up when I use my flashboy….maybe it’s just needs to be cleaned?

The solder fix is really the only definite way to fix the glitchy display.

Yeah, you need to have them fixed, if you live in the USA contact Runnerpack and if you live in Europe, contact me.

I messaged Runnerpack and emailed him.

I got mine fixed thanks to TheForce81 :).

Just chiming in to say thanks! The oven method appears to have at least temporarily solved my issues. 😀

Currently working with someone to hopefully implement a permanent fix. But just knowing it’s not broken is a good feeling.

Also, the first link in the original post does not appear to link to where it should…at least not for me.

Here are some pictures of how I peel up the ribbon cable plastic. With a thin sewing needle, you just work the tip of it under the plastic between a couple traces (only go under the plastic a tiny amount). Hold the needle at a low angle to the display PCB as you do it. Don’t try to pry up, just let the tip of it gently lift that portion of the plastic away from the traces.

As you work down the board in between each trace a few times, you’ll see the plastic start to give way. If you work slowly and don’t pry too aggressively, you should be able to expose enough of the copper without it peeling away from the PCB. You can still bend the ribbon cable copper down if they come off the traces, but it’s just a hassle to line them back up and solder without breaking them off.

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Looks very neat and tedious at the same time 😉
It looks cleaner than just burning through the plastic, though the risk of misalignment and time needed to get the plastic separated from the traces seems a bit of moot if only for the sake of looking cleaner.

If you were to expose the copper traces, I would recommend using a fiberglass pen as DogP recommends in stead of this method to be honest.

I’m not sure I follow O_o …it takes maybe 5 minutes to do each display this way, not exactly what I would call tedious but who knows. The fiberglass pencil works ok for cleaning the traces I guess, but I had a lot more trouble with broken or misaligned pieces when removing the plastic that way. If you only go part of the way up the plastic with the needle technique, enough of the cable should stay attached that it won’t fall out of alignment. The traces get buffed up much nicer when I use some adhesive remover and fine sandpaper instead.

I’m not sure I follow O_o …it takes maybe 5 minutes to do each display this way, not exactly what I would call tedious but who knows. The fiberglass pencil works ok for cleaning the traces I guess, but I had a lot more trouble with broken or misaligned pieces when removing the plastic that way. If you only go part of the way up the plastic with the needle technique, enough of the cable should stay attached that it won’t fall out of alignment. The traces get buffed up much nicer when I use some adhesive remover and fine sandpaper instead.