thunderstruck wrote:

…

Well, let me know what you think.

Sounds great, thunderstruck! Especially the Zelda tracks; very nice…

How do we get our grubby little hands on the updated files? Also, what about the converted MIDIs so we can compare (and maybe get an idea of what the input needs to be)?

Another native English speaker humbly offers his attempt 😉

At last… the time to experience true 3D has come!

Introducing the action game with the truest sense of speed!

SPACE SQUASH is an action game that combines the simple concepts of squash and air hockey… and takes them both to a whole new dimension!

The basics of the game are very simple, but once you try the excellent controls, you’ll be hooked immediately!

– 60 stage variations in all!
– Each stage has various obstacles, useful objects, and an enemy character!
– Simple and clear, with a 200% fun factor!

I don’t think the FB+ reuses the RAM from the donor cart. It would be a lot of extra work to remove the chips (there’s also a chip to automatically switch between VB power and the battery), and it would mean the tons of Baseball carts out there would be useless as donors.

This could be that your IPD (interpupillary distance) simply lies outside the VB’s range. If you need the IPD knob to be set at either maximum or minimum, you’ll probably just have to get used to it (unless you can either shrink or enlarge your head, respectively ;-)).

PM sent.

I think the contents of this post belong in this thread, so here they are:

DogP wrote:
One thing to note: there’s a pretty consistent problem where the cables are dimpled from where they’ve been in contact with the socket on the motherboard side for 17+ years… this ends up causing a glitchy display problem as well. The easy solution is to simply pull the cable out a tiny bit.

When you push the display cable into the LIF socket, you’ll feel a little bit of tension, and then you’ll feel it sorta pop into place. That means you went too far. Just pull it out a tiny bit, where you feel a little bit of tension, and you’ll be good to go.

I’d say about half of the displays did that… so I just wanted to mention that, as you’re reinstalling your displays, to: 1) not push it in all the way, and 2) test it before completely reassembling (so you don’t have to disassemble it if you pushed it all the way in).

There probably are other ways to deal with it… you may be able to use a roller or something to undimple the cable, or slide a piece of paper above the cable to increase pressure… or even trim a tiny bit off the end of the cable so you can push the cable in beyond the dimple… but simply pulling it out a tiny bit does the job, and there is enough tension that you shouldn’t have to worry about it moving during normal use or shipping.

What this also means is that in 17 years, you may need to pull the VB apart again to deal with the new dimples in the cable. 😛

DogP

Guy Perfect wrote:

RunnerPack wrote:
Great work building on the groundwork laid by DogP and HorvatM!

Built nothin’. I did this all from scratch. (-:

Well, then, good work reinventing DogP’s wheel 😉

He did this waaaay back in 2008. I thought it was on the site somewhere, but I guess he only shared it via IRC. And then there’s HorvatM’s 8-bit wav player he just posted a few days ago which I assume must use the same idea.

What, it wasn’t good enough when I said “writes volume in a loop”? )-:

Well, yes, I did understand that part (having seen DogP’s implementation) but I thought you came up with some kind of filtering/dithering trick to make it sound better. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

Great work building on the groundwork laid by DogP and HorvatM! This whole thread has been an entertaining and informative read. It would be nice to take a peek at your code, though 😉

Although, given your final analysis, it seems as though, if we want to upgrade the sound hardware on the VB (which I still think hasn’t been taken anywhere near its true potential), we’ll have to take advantage of the cartridge port audio pass-through system the designers built in.

On that note, since you seem to like OGG Vorbis (and who doesn’t?) you (and/or others) might be interested in this thing.

It’s a ~$10 chip designed to decode OGG Vorbis audio. There might be better products and/or prices; it’s the first one I found with a quick search (I actually found it quite a while ago with this very idea in mind).

No harm intended; no harm done.

I just wanted to point out a more effective means of using the marketplace to locate a stand. In hindsight, maybe the sarcasm wasn’t the best way to get my point across.

If you do find a stand in need of some parts, come on back! 😀

Hey, I have an idea! Why not post a “[WTB]” thread in the Marketplace instead of spamming existing threads? 😛 It’s so crazy it just might work! 😉

Also, FYI, “cheep” is onomatopoeia for the sound a baby bird makes. I believe the word you want is “cheap” as in “low-cost”.

Well, I’d love to try this, but PVB isn’t letting me download it… Maybe it would work if you ZIPped it.

As for the speed thing: release the source and maybe someone can figure out the problem (it might also help make Mednafen and other emulators more accurate).

Ah… so maybe it’s a dirty switch, then. Try tapping and wiggling the switch while it’s on and see if you can get it to turn off. If it’s not the switch, maybe it’s corrosion in some other part of the power circuit. It could be the controller connector, a break in the controller cable, the contacts where the battery pack connects, the contacts on the pack itself, the battery contacts inside the pack, or even something going haywire in the “low battery” detector in the controller.

I still think it might be capacitor- or regulator-related, though…

Hey, welcome to the site! (love the completely random user name :thumpup:)

That’s a real head-scratcher… If I had to guess, I’d say it was a problem with the voltage regulator, or maybe a dry capacitor on the power rail.

Are you running from batteries or an AC adapter? If the latter, what kind?

Is it possible you’re just bumping the power cord/battery box?

When you say it “shuts off” you mean it just goes dead, no sounds, no vibration, no nothing, or does it just reboot?

Does it come right back on if you cycle the power switch?

Try turning it on with no game in and see if it stays on longer (it won’t make a picture or any sounds, but if you listen closely you can hear the hum of the mirrors vibrating).

Lookee what I got in the mail today! 😀

Thanks again, bigmak! You rock!

The label art looks great, morintari! :thumpup:

Attachments:

1. 

   fbproto.jpg
   

bigmak wrote:

You can tell his man writes code 😛 just from looking at his lists. I bet his walmart list looks similar 😛

-Eric

lol… It’s either the fact that I’m a coder, or that I used to be a quartermaster in the Army 😛

(Actually, I made that second one up, but I had you fooled for a second! ;-))

Also, for the record, I never use a shopping list 😀

rcantor77 wrote:
I’m looking for the hinged Front Clip.. do you have any of these up for sale…?

Cheers.

What you see is what I’ve got. Sorry…

Updated list:

Stand parts:
> Rubber feet x 2
> Plastic leg gussets x 2
> Metal leg; left (no feet/gussets) x 1
> Metal leg; right (no feet/gussets) x 1
> Medallion; unbroken (for now :-P) x 1
> Medallion; already broken x 1

(You can, of course, get all the parts for either or both legs still assembled. Just thought I’d clarify that ;-))

Misc:
> Empty VB shell; ser. no. VN10415843[0] (for custom paint) x 1

Updated list:

Stand parts:
> Rubber feet x 2
> Plastic leg gussets x 2
> Metal legs (no feet/gussets) x 2
> Medallion; unbroken (for now :-P) x 1
> Medallion; already broken x 1

(You can, of course, get all the parts for both legs still assembled. Just thought I’d clarify that ;-))

Battery box parts:
> Battery contacts tray; non-corroded x 1

Misc:
> Empty VB shell; ser. no. VN10415843[0] (for custom paint) x 1

PM sent 🙂

Hey, frostyboy,

Just wanted to let you know I’m selling one of these battery box contact inserts.

I hope I’m not too late…