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Understood
@theforce81Registered December 30, 2009Active 3 weeks, 2 days ago
530 Replies made

If you want, I can still do it for you, just send me a PM

Just sent you an email with all the details in response to your PM.

Cool to see you know where the two notches on top of the VB are for!

As I mentioned in the mail, the glitchy display problem doesn’t have anything to do with used or still new in box. It happens without the need to use it unfortunately. But it does always suck when you unpack it and you see this happen of course.

EDIT:
The price is a bit steep overall though, but that doesn’t have anything to do with the glitchy display problem.
If he would have known about it, he would have needed to unpack it and test it, which would make it used and not new in box anymore. That is a bit of a tough one with VB’s at the moment.

  • This reply was modified 8 years, 4 months ago by TheForce81.

mips5000 wrote:
I shipped it out today. What skeeved me out is the UPS and USPS both quoted $20 to ship the box from PA -> CA. Couldn’t believe it was that much for a 12x12x6″ box. How do Ebay sellers do it so cheap?

I initially asked if he uses solder. He said no, that it was too risky, and no oven either, but didn’t voluntarily disclose his method. Sounded like he wanted to keep it on the low, but has to assume I’ll open the thing (assuming I get it back).

I could understand there would be an easier way to fix them (sounds unlikely though, but hey, what do I know 😉 ), but he saying that using solder is too risky, is just his way to say I doesn’t know how to solder.

Doesn’t necessarily say his method isn’t any good, but that part just isn’t true. Soldering is not risky, as long as you know what you are doing. Though that goes for everything in life I guess.

I have done hundreds now and only got three displays in total that gave problems and those either had bad connector cables (the part that goes in the VB mainboard) or had broken traces higher up in the cable. One once came back, I had to redo that one and all the others haven’t given problems since. The one that I had to redo, was one of my firsts. Didn’t happen anymore after that one.
A lot of them have been worked on years ago and still working, so no risks.

Price is right if it is indeed repaired for good and the problems won’t come back. Though I am very curious what that person does to repair it permanently, can’t really think of anything else than soldering that can take care of this problem.

I would wait for HP LoveThrash (as you are located in the USA) to get ready to repair it rather than taking this chance to be honest.
I am pretty sure the guy on eBay hangs out here as well, but is not willing to share his method on here, which I find a very rude thing as we all share our findings here normally. Maybe he has found a great way that everyone can do themselves easily, would help out a lot of people.

Should be fixable indeed, where do you live? If you live in Europe, I can help you out, if you live in the States, I would try to contact HP Lovethrash for a quicker turnaround.

Where do you live? I repair them myself and am located in Europe, if you are located in Canada or the USA, I would recommend to contact HP LoveThrash

The most important is to have decent tools, that means at least a soldering station with temperature control. It is important to have the temperature set at a level that is not too low or high. How do you determine that? Tough to explain, you have to experiment a bit on that. Every station works a bit different that the other in relation to that. I know they shouldn’t, but that is life. The trick is to get the solder really flowing, but if you get it too high, you burn the flux away. Then you know you have set it too hot.

I wouldn’t mind helping out, but if you have only basic experience, I am not really comfortable telling you to try it to be honest. If you still want to go through with it, I cannot give you much advice, other than the following. Be patient and never have the tip of your soldering iron touch the plastic or traces themselves!!
The best way of trying this, is getting some displays that are not repairable anyway and start fiddling out with that. I cannot really comment on anything else really at the moment though!

Good luck either way!!

I have been eyeing the PS VR, but find it too expensive for what it offers, especially since I don’t own a PS4 myself. I do have a Galaxy S7 with the VR goggles and a few movies are great, though Land’s End is one hell of a game to play on it! Important is to sit on a chair that can rotate and with good earbuds in that close you off from outside noise. Especially when entering a cave, it was 25 centigrade here, but I felt cold when I got there.
That really showed me the potential of VR, but it simply still isn’t mature enough for me to shell out a lot of cash, I think that the hardware and better lenses/FOV are way better in a year or five, then I am willing to spend my cash on a fully developed system and fully developed games. No matter which brand comes up with the best one, I’d buy it then.

I can tell because of the blobs of tin underneath the cable. The blobs are fine, they just gave away that someone has been soldering on them, but no clue if it has been successful or not judging from this pic. I attached a zoomed in pic of the part I am talking about.

That glue is there purely to keep the cable in place and not having it detaching from the display board completely. Normally there is some glue to keep it in place, but that white blob usually crumbles up and breaks.

This doesn’t really help with the glitches ultimately.

I normally add a bit of scotch tape to solve this problem.

Now looking at it from my PC, I see that the cable is soldered as well. I don’t think the glue will cause any oxidizing on the cable, especially if the cable is still coated by plastic at that point of the cable as it seems.

Do you see any glitches? If not, I wouldn’t worry about them ever glitching. Could you show us a better picture of the soldering job?

  • This reply was modified 8 years, 8 months ago by TheForce81.
  • This reply was modified 8 years, 8 months ago by TheForce81.

Why didn’t you contact HP Lovethrash directly before posting here? Would have been a bit more courteous.

It does look like a crack indeed though, strange, but it could still be some piece of dirt.

Welcome! You will find that this is a great community overall, very helpful and insightful most of the time with a rare heated discussion only once in a while 😉

Great, hope you get it sorted soon! There is no real alternative without risking the cable getting damaged or detached. While the risk is pretty low, I cannot recommend it.

This is the all well too known glitchy display issue. You normally cannot see the glue going bad visually other than the displays not working. You need to repair them and preferably not with any heat trick, only soldering is a proven long term solution.

Just had a pair of displays for repair a few days ago where one cable was completely detached due to the oven trick. I got it repaired this time, but it is harder to do and when it fails, it is as good as irreparable.

EU adapters for NES and SNES give out AC while the Sega does DC, so that makes total sense!

gladders wrote:
Okay, so it’s clear that this US adapter requires a US-style power supply. Just to be clear, even though the adapter is US, my Japanese VB can still draw power safely from it, right?

Yes, as long as you feed the US adapter 110V and use a US adapter tap.

You need a EU or JAP adapter with a JAP adapter tap or US adapter with US adapter tap to get it working per specifications. Though using the US adapter will get you to the next problem, you need a converter from 110-220V then.

Haven’t tried fitting it back into anything to be honest, took it out of a very damaged stand in case I would ever need it. Checked my 100% in order stand, but is too hard to tell you anything off of it and I do not want to break it since it is so sensitive.

I cannot completely tell you how to fix it, but to me it seems you have the incorrect spring, unless the US and Jap version have different interchangeable springs (which I highly doubt looking at the spring I have).
I have a spare spring laying around here, just take a look at it.