i did buy that bit and a screwdriver for it. it cost me about $16 with shipping. i got it in less than a week. the bit is made of a cheaper metal, its not a sears craftsman quality but it does the job. i recommend the screwdriver as it took some minor torque to get the screw off.

replacing the battery was really simple, i just popped out the old one with a mini flat head screwdriver and then slide in the new one.

at first the rom flashed to the cart was still not saving. i reseated the battery and flashed a new rom, that one has been fine so far. i’m not yet 100% sure the problem was the original battery. the battery cage seems really tight so i don’t think it was the seating of the original battery. only time will tell if it is something else, like a bad connection. the old battery was about two weeks old by the time i received the FB+, but it could have been sitting around. if the new one is holding a save 2 months from now i’ll assume it was battery related.

anways, just wanted to post an update =).

I got my FB+ box in the mail. It was extremely well packaged, carefully wrapped in newspaper and secured inside of a box. The FB+ box is professionally designed and built from quality materials. If you were to buy a FB+ from a store this is the box you would expect to get with it. The box is complete with information, a UPC code, images, bright glossy colors, and a tray to hold the donor cart. Anyone who get a FB+ and wants the full experience should order the box.

I paid KR155E directly using Paypal and he shipped out the box a few days later. He is 100% trustworthy (though most of you probably know that), and you should have no worries about paying using Paypal.

Thanks again KR155E, my FB+ is now complete! =)

i was born in the 70s, played a vb at toys r us in the 90s and didn’t think much of it. now that i’m older i’m hunting down stuff that i shouldn’t have passed on. i think there are a lot of people doing the same thing, buying up “retro” stuff they passed on and now want to experience.

i’ve been watching auctions on ebay like a hawk the past 2 months. the vb with all you need to play (missing the box) seem to sell for around $59-100 and with the box, a few games, or the ac adapter they sell for $125-150. in the box and unused they seem to go for $150-$250. the few i saw go for more had a nice selection of games and the ac adpater.

you can still find deals if you shop around but i don’t expect to find a VB at a thrift shop anytime soon.

although i did recently pick up a bandai lcd galaxian handheld at a thrift shop for 2.99 in a very fine condition. =)

As I have never built anything like this I wanted to ask that I would need this circuit, a usb wire, and a VB controller? Solder the VB controller to the board and the usb wire to the board?

This looks like a fun project and I am interested in it.

NOTE: As of this posting the wiring diagrams are not yet up, but rest assured they are coming and should be ready with more than enough time to spare if you decide to place an order.

i think a lot of the VB games were released before people really knew what they could do with the system. the ‘3D’ effect on most games isn’t really 3d but graphics designed on a visual plane that make them seem to go “into the background” or something like that. i really notice the depth of the 3d on the title screen for wario land and on mario’s face when you die. i also see it on the intro for panic bomber. you can see it in a lot of the games but its subtle and not nearly as good as what would have come if the system had lasted a few more years.

sometimes i have to close one eye and then open it again to realize that i am looking at 3d. where with the 3ds it was instantaneous, but then again they really tried to perfect what was going on with the 3ds.

did you see this: http://gbatemp.net/t287443-virtual-boy-3ds-mock-up

a bit of planetVB promotion thanks to your mock-ups.

Water World sealed in the box for $250. Its buy the guy who parts out VB units, no idea if its the real factory seal.

http://cgi.ebay.com/WATERWORLD-Virtual-Boy-3D-VB-Water-World-SEALED-US-vers-/120693489465?pt=Video_Games_Games&hash=item1c19e47f39

in case it isn’t an april fools joke it is worth entering.

the dangers of bumping an old thread =P

thanks for the info. happen to know the CRC of the good dump? E81A3703 perhaps?

thanks!

i love this vid, i can’t stop watching it. i recognize some of the locations, especially the Ross dress for less. i wish i could track down some VB gamers out here! did you film some of this in the valley?

thanks for the vid and the laughs.

some good news for FB+ users. below is a response from richard.

BTW it does not require any soldering to replace the battery, it fits in a holder on the PCB. All you need is the screwdriver for the 2 screws that hold the cart together.

i’m looking at buying one of these: 3.8mm gamebit

What glitches are happening and when do they happen? I played it on my FB+ and had no issues. Perhaps I didn’t get far enough into the game?

I picked up a FB+ from Richard before reading this thread. Is it still possible to purchase the box and card?

e5frog: What shipping method did you choose? I’m confused by the Rakuten International Shipping service verses the other International choice.

The Rakuten method is saying $15 for up to 1LB to the US and that doesn’t seem right.

what type of lamp did your purchase? where did you buy it from? how did you mount the vb stand holder into the lamp?

i’m curious because i want to do this project.

awesome news! i think i’m going to have to pick one up.

@RunnerPack: looks like this is the tool to get, talk to you about it on IRC.

I do appreciate that offer. I am about to head back East to visit with my family for my Birthday Day. When I return I should better know if someone is willing to do it, and I should have some B-Day money to spend on the repair!

I’ve IM’ed Johnny Phantom tonight, no response yet. I will keep you posted.

Thank you for all of your information in this thread. You have set most of my worries aside and I can go back to just enjoying the VB and having fun! =)

[Lester Knight]

When I turn on the VB the “Saftey Message” seems to change size and shape for a few seconds, after that it looks fine and doesn’t move, is that the mirrors getting up to speed?

I actually have been following your progress on the Flash Kit. I’m really interested in one, even though I have a FlashBoy+ on the way. I love Flash Kits since the GBA days and as a reviewer for GBATemp.net I’ve been able to build a small collection of various kits.

I can’t solder, I actually never have. I’m afraid to screw up my $150 investment. Based on what I have read about you on this forum and your site I would be honored if you had the time to fix my VB. I’m thinking to just get both sides repaired so that I can avoid this problem in the future. Perhaps in the coming months if you have the free time?

Cheers.

• This reply was modified 11 years, 7 months ago by Lester Knight.

[Lester Knight]

When you are talking about the black visor you mean part number VUE-012, the black plastic part that holds the red lenses?

I get that “warping” when the IPD is in the middle as well but it is less extreme and I actually don’t notice it except for the very edges. When the IPD is at an extreme the 3D seems “tighter” but the warping is a bit worse.

I really hope the VB isn’t having issues I just paid $150 for it with shipping =(.

:::edit:::
I just moved the IPD to the right and I am now getting a very glitchy right screen. When I moved it back to the center it went away. However, the slight “warping” remains. I still wonder if the warping is my eyes or the VB unit.

Looks like I need suggestions on who can fix the VB in the US. I would like to get the visual display soldered and done once and for all so I can just enjoy the unit! =)

Thanks for your help!

• This reply was modified 11 years, 8 months ago by Lester Knight.

Hello.

I don’t know how you guys are about bumping an old post, and I am sorry if my reply offends anyone.

I have blurry edges on my VB, a system I have only owned for 2 days, so I am new to this hardware. I have been talking about it in the IRC channel and running all types of physical debugging. By physical I mean that I am moving my body and using those around me to help test.

It seems that if I put the IPD all the way to the right I can see the right VB squares clearly, the left most shapes I can see VERY slightly and faintly. If I put the IPD all the way to the left I can see the 2 left VB squares clearly, the right most shapes I can see VERY slightly and faintly.

If I put the IPD in the middle I can see all 4 squares but I have no way to focus them. They are visible but very blurry, I find it hard to read the “VB” text on each of them, even with the focus slider all the way adjusted.

I do wear corrective lenses and I’ll be the first to admit that my eyes have aged over the years. I am wearing an old prescription (lack of $$ for a new one) as well right now which makes it hard to see some stuff in correct focus until they are on top of me. I’m pretty good with things close to my face but I no longer have the 20/40 I once did.

With all that said I always have blurriness around the edges. I have been playing Red Alarm and the “numbers” for the SHIELD and SPEED are blurry unless I put the IPD all the way to the right or left. When the IPD is in the middle I can see the edges clearly if I move my head to the right or left, slightly, while playing. However I have other issues when the IPD is all maxed out (see below)*.

I have asked a few people around me to test as well and they do not have these issues. I am starting to think that the problem is less of a lens design issue and more of an issue with the limit of the IPD adjustment and my eyesight. The device, to me at least, seems like it was not designed to accommodate all eyes, all people, and all ages.

*My other issue is that when the IPD is all the way to the right the graphics look like they are concave. They seem to push out in the middle and wrap back (slightly) on the edges. When playing Mario’s Tennis, on the main selection screen I see this and I am unsure if this is my eyes or the VB unit. When the IPD is all the way to the left the graphics seem “tighter”, the 3D is “OK”, and the graphics are “flatter” and not concave. In the middle the middle most text is flat and the edges “curve” back a tiny bit. I’m not sure if this is a problem with my eyes, the design, or if the unit has issues? I’ve let others test and they don’t really see what I am talking about so I am starting to think it might just be me, meaning it’s MY eyes.

I am also not sure what problems adjusting the IPD might cause, was it designed to be run at the RIGHT and LEFT most extremes? I also hate using it at the extremes because I feel like in another few years, if my eyes adjust, there is no room left for adjustment of the systems IPD.

I’ve love to read comments on my post especially if anyone experiences what I am trying to describe in the second last paragraph.

Thanks!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220752008740&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

There is a FlashBoy up for auction. It is numbered #059. I wonder if there are records which point to who it was originally sold to? =P

Anyways, its got 9 days to go. I’m going to watch it to see what it sells for.