I remember there was something like that now that you mention it but I still can’t find the link to it…

I found that out later – I read some old posts and found that guys posts who successfully repaired his unit with his own regulator and reset circuit and then accidentally used a 7812 instead of a 7805 and fried it (what did he drive it with – if he had used 9V it wouldn’t have been able to driven the 7812).

I found a nice reset-circuit for the NES when I looked at his blog – best blog I ever read. That’s on my to-do list now. As I have one of those PowerPak:s it’s convenient if you can reset on the controller when browsing through games.

So… I guess anything in the area 6-13 V is OK then.
It’s a little smaller than the original adapter. 😉

Here’s a composite picture of it:

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That was a lot cheaper than $1000 anyway! 😉

I have three games… I keep the boxes in the same box that the V.B. box lies in and the cartridges lay loose on a shelf – all two of them – with dust protection on and one cart in the V.B.

I’ll probably put the boxes in the bookshelf when I get some more. I guess a few of those plain shrinkwrapped carts will look good there. 😉

Perhaps these two:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190365255612

I successfully use hot air to remove most stickers (hot air gun at low setting or a hair dryer), as old as 30+ years. To remove the glue or at least dilute it it’s most often possible to uses gas/petrol/benzine (sometimes the not so aggressive methanol does the trick instead), it can be bought chemically clean in 100 ml bottles here in Sweden and is meant to be used as stain remover on clothes and such. There are also commercially available sticker-glue removers out there.

Perhaps they used the wrong stickers in the factory and relabeled them without removing the faulty one?

How do you start debug mode from the front end? If I click the Debug Mode square I get nothing after pressing “Launch”.

There’s a disassembler in MESS, perhaps it could be used to output a complete disassembly of a game?

A nice car game would be hilarious, like this one:

Or something like Death Rally
http://www.remedygames.com/games/death_rally.html
(you can now download the full version and play – adapted for Windows)

Death Rally would look really nice with those 3D effects (surrounding mountains and buildings) in actual 3D.

Galactic Pinball (US): 09

Here’s a template if you want to give it a go, start out with a rectangular shape 52x63mm (could be shorter ofcourse), cut the two holes for the connectors and taper it a bit to make it fit in the slot. It’s gradually narrower in the front piece. Round appropriate corners for a smooth connection. Add connector or solder wire directly, finish it with a high gloss black paint or something like that. 😉

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I guess someone here would know what circuitry the battery voltage goes into – directly into the voltage regulator or are there anything in between. Is it a 7805 that does the regulating? In that case it needs at least about 7,5V to work, my battery pack is currently at 8,2V and there’s no battery warning yet.
I believe I have read the orginal power supply is 10 V DC?

More voltage than necessary will make the regulator hotter so I guess something around 8-9 Volts will be OK?

… and here it is attached to the controller. It doesn’t look as nice as a dedicated unit would if it was made from scratch but it works and the controller remains in it’s original state.

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I noticed later that there’s a bump on the connector so perhaps a piece of metal soldered on top of the pcb would be better, but it works and I just need to attach the power supply, I haven’t decided if I should glue a connector on the PCB, attach one on a wire or buy a supply exclusively for this project and solder it directly without any connector – decreasing the risk of unintentionally pulling the plug.

Playing from the battery pack is safer that way… 😉

I took a few shots of the connector:

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I got my Galactic Pinball today and as I wanted to open it up anyway to see that everything looked fine I also reset the high scores. Used a 1,5V AA battery connected across the sram, + to GND-pin and – to VCC not more than three seconds (which is perhaps longer than necessary).

The jumper (in the red box) can also be used to cut the backup power, then solder over it again to re-power the sram.

I still have 3,04 V over the battery – after fifteen years – that’s impressive, really power economical ram (and control circuit) that one.

Connecting wires to the connector is probably the easiest way to do it though.

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[e5frog]

EDIT: Sorry, they have the same link as KR155E.

This is from 2007:
http://spacepope4u.blogspot.com/2007/05/birdos-original-tennis-debut.html

• This reply was modified 14 years, 4 months ago by e5frog.

Can the method be used in a 16 shade still picture?

… on a moving object and or background?

This picture perhaps:

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There’s over 8kB of unused space in the rom, if the decision to leave out the 2 player option was late isn’t it more likely that it was patched to skip those parts rather than taken out completely? It looks like everything wasn’t removed anyway…

As an example the Fairchild BIOS is patched to not be able to move horizontally in tennis – so it’s more like the original Pong, I found a version in a Swedish rental machine that missed that patch and they differed in just two bits in the code, yes two bits, not two bytes.

Perhaps it’s possible to activate the 2 player mode again…

If we work together on it perhaps it solveable.

What compiler is the original source written for then? Is it not possible to use that one?

I’m not to keen on the “no use in trying unless you’re an expert”-mentality.

Perhaps it should open in a new window or a frame inside PVB.

DarkusMarkus wrote:

Could you send it to my email ?
)only if its clean and high rez version…
thanks

I guess I won’t send it then, as it is the same pictures in the pdf as the scanned pictures that can be found here.

I’ll see if I can locate the submission-form…
Looking forward to the high resolution scans.