DogP wrote:
…
For posting pics… what’s wrong with attaching the file, like this (like you did):

DogP

If it’s a large picture everyone that opens the page will download the large picture (perhaps as much as 2MB) and it appears shrunken down. It would be better if a thumbnail picture was shown in the forum and that the large original picture (ideally if the width didn’t fit the width of the forum) was loaded only if someone clicked the small one.

I tried adding pictures from pici.se and postimage.org which handles this automatically but the picture linking software on this site destroys all possibilities of using them. On other forums you can simply add the bbcode links and it’ll work right away.

This attempt of bbcode (hacked for visibility)
[_url=http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=frogA][_img]http://www.postimage.org/frog1.png[/_img][/_url]

… is supposed to show a picture and when pressed it’s supposed to load the url-link, but if this code is used the forum tries to load a picture called …/frogA.png instead of opening the linked adress …/image.php?v=frogA. There is no picture called frogA.png, the forum makes it up itself.

-if you preview your post it works just fine but after submitting it there’s some javascript instead that messes it up.

It can’t be a security measure, I can add any link I want to but just not any link to a picture.

The Commodore-type is the wrong size. The ones on the PC floppy cables seem to be the right size but they’re 2mm too wide and won’t fit the hole, and there’s not 1mm of material that can be removed on each side – so I’ll stick with the USB-cables for now.

I have 14 Fairchild Multi-Carts I need to get ready so I probably don’t have time to get this ready in the immediate future. 😉

[e5frog]

For the 2MB games you need enough chips, you could go for four of them. Then you’d have to divide the rom in four parts, lower half odd’s and even bytes and upper half odds and evens and connect the roms appropriately.

I would go for a 27C160 DIP chip instead, less soldering but a little more fuzz when you want to reprogram it as you have to UV-erase them. If you have at least two you could play one and have the other ready to use. Of course it’s one more thing to buy – a UV-eraser… Or you buy enough of the cheaper OTP-chips so that you can burn all the games you like after testing them and have them interchangeable. DIP-capsule chips and sockets can also take a little more wear than PLCC, and are easier to pull from the socket.

eBay usually never fails, here are 10 chips for $38.88:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390139665426

If you have or get a Willem eprom programmer you need an adapter for this chip however:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390125722480

There are probably cheaper versions.

I’d go for both of them right away if I had the money (just got unemployed)

EDIT: Addition, plans and datasheet:

BTW: The size is wrong this is a 1024kB x 16 bit not 2048kB.

The DIP-circuit is however 42 pins, check pinout here:
http://www.alldatasheet.co.kr/datasheet-pdf/pdf_kor/22897/STMICROELECTRONICS/27C160.html

Here’s the most important information:

• This reply was modified 14 years, 3 months ago by e5frog.
• This reply was modified 14 years, 3 months ago by e5frog.
• This reply was modified 14 years, 3 months ago by e5frog.
• This reply was modified 14 years, 3 months ago by e5frog.
• This reply was modified 14 years, 3 months ago by e5frog.

Attachments:

1. 

   m27c160-pinout.png
   

What’s a card-edge / edgeboard connector?

I googled and it looks kind of like the connector for a VIC20/C64 user-port or tape-port…

Same dimension?

Congratulations!

There are FlashBoy:s to order now, if you still want one. Just click the top right corner.

How much does that usually cost – on eBay?

[e5frog]

Well, I don’t agree that “the screen” moves quickly.

Yes, there are two oscillating mirrors… and a lens.

Does anyone have a link to the patent documents?
EDIT: Found links: http://www.goliathindustries.com/vb/VBProg.html

EDIT2:
Also found a nice picture:

• This reply was modified 14 years, 3 months ago by e5frog.
• This reply was modified 14 years, 3 months ago by e5frog.

I was planning to put them inside the metal but it’s a little to wide to fit in the narrow end of the connector. I could perhaps do a mold for the epoxy that would make it fit nicely in the VB-connector.

Yes, I also noticed the two middle pins are a little closer together, but if they’re properly centered they will fit.

I had my eyes on one of the ISA-connectors on a PC motherboard, as the spacing is the same as on a Fairchild cartridge and those two make a good match, but I decided to try this first as the ISA-connector was a bit too thick.

If The +5V is also connected, would it be possible to drive the second VB if it doesn’t have power? Perhaps it won’t allow enough current?

I wrote to them and complained – you do the same. 😉

Find it out in “00 hrs 00 min 00 sec”

so…?

Ok, I meant with a real VB. 😉

Great pictures, thanks!

I just thought of DanB:s avatar and it looked wrong.

DogP, how do you do it, do you have any nice pictures?

If you super glue the PLCC up-side-down and bend out the legs (or cut the bent part off) the profile is less than 3 mm, is that enough? Do you know how much room there is between the PCB and the shell?

I guess it could be good to have a version with sockets also, so you could test the roms in the VB before soldering them in place.

[e5frog]

Robert is a member at a Swedish game forum as well (vintagegames.se), I wrote and ask about his cartridge, not that I think he still got it.

BTW, I don’t understand how anyone would think that monster were an official Nintendo prototype.

• This reply was modified 14 years, 3 months ago by e5frog.

projectvb@gmail.com isn’t free either ;-(

[e5frog]

I have found a connector that might fit:
https://www1.elfa.se/data1/wwwroot/webroot/Z_DATA/04379177.pdf

I’m thinking of the 2mm, 2×40 holes (very lousy datasheet).

But it’s made for square pins, if it fits, the connectors probably must be tightened.

The “If you can buy the part…” is probably true.

Unless you can’t afford it and have time and materials to spare.

😉

• This reply was modified 14 years, 3 months ago by e5frog.

That was fun!

Only negative feedback I have is that it’s nice that the glare on blocks changes when you turn the blocks, but it should glare softly around the block when you rotate and not in steps only glaring in the corners.

I’ll go one more time before I fix the dinner…

I have a tendency of being impatient, so eventually I might disassemble my unit anyway. 😉

If there’s someone out there that usually have VB:s apart maybe you could take som nice pictures of the guts?

On the labels of the carts, they’re mot printed but just stamped in the paper so there’s an indentation in the label in the form of numbers. On the right, lower part on my carts.