Oooh… nice, must be a holy grail in that collection!

That sounds nice, injection molding molds are a big investment so it’s good that he’s able to make 3D-prints to make sure it works before going that route.

Looks like there’s another original version of the medallion, perhaps this other one isn’t as prone to breaking?

So if doing the 3D-print (metal is sometimes available too) perhaps a solid shape as possible will hold up better?

I’d love the one with red connectors, cause black looks boring – if I can afford it when the time comes.

I’ve been wanting to make my own and I actually bought some USB cables cheap some time ago, but never got further.

I guess the 3D print is most of the cost?

OK, thanks!

Just being able to buy cables and a few games using that cable would be nice. It would be fun to meet up with other Virtual Boy owners on fairs and have a game of 4-in-a-row, poker, battle ship or some 3D-shooter…

Connector is the black part with the two rows of metal pieces that connects the PCB of the cartridge to the Virtual Boy. Tolerances are pretty low and you need those little metal parts as well. The ones for PCMCIA or CF-cards are similar in size but where would we find these (apart from trying to disassemble CF cards)or have them manufactured at a good enough price?

No, go for the originals as long as they are available.

I’ve had two pairs of shells printed using the cheapest method and they would be usable but could need some polishing. Connector would need something more refined.

If you have found one I’d be interested in buying your cracked one.

I’m guessing someone didn’t pay the annual fee? Don’t know how it works…

Server crashed?

It was possibly taken down by the author.

Reading the Kill Screen Magazine article made me think again. Isn’t there a oled display or similar that could replace the original LED column? You could maybe use one column of the display and with some clever technology also use green or blue. Maybe skip two rows and use these to signal blue or red…

Would have been nice to have a color VirtualBoy.

And also as a spare part to use if there’s ever a problem finding replacements. LEDs don’t last forever. 😉

Virtual Bowling is right there in a zip-archive for download – some 300+ kB.

http://www.planetvb.com/modules/games/?r017d

The 1k file is some patch to get into the debug mode.

Looks nice!

Hope you can sort the software part out.

Donation sent, haven’t had time to test it yet but I support the endeavor!

If you want a cart (and don’t get one here), just buy a FlashBoy+ and make your own label. 😉

Did the double rom work directly on the FlashBoy?
The 8Mbit version needs to be patched to work there then?

Possibly on Wikipedia until some moderator with strict interpretations of various rules comes and deletes the entire passage. 😉

I’ll be happy to donate before the end of the month (that’s when people get their salary).

Nevermind that the ROM says V^TETRIS and that it’s repeated twice in the downloadable file. It’s supposed to be that way.

BTW, Editor sucks, if you accidentally (and not accidentally as well) press preview all your enters are changed into code and aren’t changed back when posting – I’m leaving them just to show it.

… or (for Minestorm) two of these types of nozzles and a heat gun (and additional pipes) or two separate heat guns…

Press the button, heat, pull apart.

[e5frog]

I have only removed one (to send to Minestorm before I got the FlashBoy+), used a hot air gun with adjustable heat. No damage to the plastic and it took less than 5 min before the connector could easily be pulled off the PCB. You need just enough heat and be sure to move it all the time. It’s no different than to desolder other stuff.

Connector plastic is of a different kind than the rest of the cart, don’t know how much heat it can take. It’s obviously possible to solder the connector with no damage. Maybe some foil on the plastic to protect it helps if there are any worries.

But listen to Minestorm, he’s the expert, maybe better safe than sorry. Don’t understand how he has the time and patience to desolder with a solder iron. With the amount of carts passing he should have some “all pins double sided heater thing-a-majigg” that warms all pins up at once and just slides that connector off.

I guess adding some flux would speed things up and decrease the risk of damaging the plastic.

EDIT: I was thinking a double pair of something like this, but wider:

So, heat all pins at once, slide the connector and board apart.

• This reply was modified 11 years, 3 months ago by e5frog.

Nice with a bit of changes.

If the German-speaking users are in minority then there’s perhaps not much meaning of writing everything double.

I’d appreciate not getting e-mails in doubles, one English and one German.

I had the Galactic Pinball cart disassembled for measurement but found DogP’s site when making a quick search for the LH52A64N pinout.

Here’s what he says:
http://www.projectvb.com/tech/cartpinout.html

Compared to the ROM: A0-A12 are hooked to eachother and D0-D7. So it doesn’t seem that (hardware wise) it would be different from reading from the ROM but with only the lower eight bits.

Other differencies to ROM is the /WE on cart pin3, /CS1 cart pin 6, CS2 cart pin 7 (seemed to be held high).

So if I got this right…
If reading at address “SRAM” which is the first address for the SRAM’s first byte you should instead of getting 16 valid bits just get eight valid bits and the rest is crap. If listing the data as bytes that’s every second byte. As D0-D7 is hooked up to the sram it should be even bytes in such a data list that are valid ones, that’s byte 0, 2, 4 etc…

Seems a bit odd to me.

Isn’t the SRAM hooked to the same bus as the rom but only half of the data lines hooked up?

Is it the data lines that are used every second one and not just the upper or lower half?

So is the SRAM using D1, D3, D5, D7, D9, D11, D13, D15 instead of just D0-D7 or D8-D15?

Guess I could open a cart and have a look…