I hate to say it but you may have a larger problem that possibly can not be corrected by current knowledge. Those mirrors should always vibrate at a very fast to a blur consistent pace (like hummingbird wings) and they shouldn’t change let alone stop. This could still despite no bulge be a cap issue, but worse it could be a short or damaged IC and that likely maybe beyond anyones means to repair or replace without cannibalizing another busted system. This is assuming you’re right about nothing else causing it to sputter and stop as you seem only at a basic level certain of things reading your words. There is a way to re-align them, only one person surely knows how but others are investigating I’m sure, but that doesn’t seem like where sliding something over a bit would cure it.
Back on 1/26 i got a Virtual Boy again after like 15 years (SN: VN100121414) and now, at least for now, may be for keeps, I do have a second.
VN103922735
It is solder fixed by me, and I do have yet another I picked up since then for part and game upgrades second to the fact it came with an OEM stand, system manual, and a beyond excellent blockbuster case.
I solder fixed it too but put it up for sale to recoup my expenses and it’s VN105956097 Sooner or later someone will be the new owner but for now I do have 3.
What he said, but I’d just pay up for the ac adapter because the thing chews through 6AAs fairly quickly so it’s kind of a pain unless you have like 12 rechargeable batteries and can swap between as they refill.
Just grab a Mario Tennis game since it’s like $5-10 shipped being the pack-in game.
As far as the infamous eye issue goes, depending on skill level it’s either easily repairable in like an hour, or over your head dangerous as it’s a thin plastic cable with copper leads through it and easily melted. I can do it, it just takes time and a steady hand.
Well it could be so nasty inside something is causing a blockage somewhere(s) because you said it’s stiff to adjust. The banging could not be crud but misalignment of the mirrors within. It also could be something far worse, a real part failure and not a falling out of alignment issue.
Better really not to speculate without eyes on the inside of it so maybe just wait and take some pictures.
Ahh so it’s an on board thing, kind of like how someone would tinker with a pot wheel for consoles like with optical drives and what not. I could see how that could be a time suck, but far better than wasting time and money with replacement parts if it’s something of that sort. So that is good to know.
No walk in the park eh? What’s involved in actually fixing it because it seemed most figured it was some messed up IC or another mysterious part failure from what I’ve read.
I’ve been educated on how to do the solder fix and performed my first successful one this night. My soldering game has raised quite a bit from batteries, popped wires, and chip swapping old carts considering the delicacy of it all. I didn’t bacon warp the ribbon or any other common blunders at all either thankfully. 😀
I’ll be doing another one tomorrow night if plans work out.
I had that pointed out to me the other day on facebook, but I’m more trying to figure out where the failure is now as I put a new battery in there replacing the existing CR1225.
Beat it, saw credits, saw the unlock notes, then ran survival into the 2nd fight and killed out to the menu — powered off, then on, and no saved progress or scores. I mean it’s not huge the game itself works, but it is annoying it is doing that since it isn’t saving.
I know I’m resurrecting an old thread here, but from what I gather asking about the original run of the game was that it came on a yellow PCB with a few chips (and a battery to save reading your manual PDF too.) I got one today in the mail, battery is dead clearly as it’s not saving scores, so that also means a couple modes are locked too.
I saw that someone asked and received scans and all that, but would it be possible to track down the actual box and manual for this still at this rate or whoever made them?
Not bad. The AC adapter looking bit threw me like maybe it’s the third party one that came out for the system, or it’s a mix of randomness like the non-VB stuff all in there.
I really wish I could get one of those cases, but they’re easily $150 when fairly listed on ebay, but you have to watch because subhuman scalper trolls like to throw them up for twice that and higher and just let them sit (or to show off since it’s free to list.) I’ve got dust issues here, would help keep mine living but I may just have to get one of those modern system covers for it in the end.
Eight years for a handheld is a hell of a run. The GBA lasted 9 years, the original Gameboy was 9 (1989) alone 14 including the Color (1989-2003). Interestingly the DS line also lasted 9 years 2004-13.
The GBC being the extension system, if you look at the main line of units, they all seemingly have lasted with the overlap to more or less 8-9 years. That’s a good long run for a single piece of hardware with minor changes/revisions.
Just the next step in reasons to hate that chain after their edict years ago to throw away disc and DS cases, boxes and dust clips for GB to GBA games. All to save space to fit more stock as it was a waste to them. The downside to their criminal to gamer level pricing which didn’t vary by having game alone or everything.
Yeah agreed it would be wrong to leave out Chalvo from Bound High, he’s a mini mascot of sorts, had more than one game under his belt so there are designs to work by for a look, sound ,and attack pattern.
Very strange the content of that box. There’s a mix of all sorts of stuff, some I can’t make out. Great deal either way no matter how complete or not the VB is especially with that case. Maybe it’s in there and unseen but I don’t see the stand, and a third party power supply?
Wow I had wondered about what their quality on the inside looked like. That looks like a decent piece of work on their part along with the cannibalized pin connector and repurposed shell and dust clip. All things considered what people end up charging for some stuff on the system that’s a very good deal.
I had been considering buying a game or two off of them myself, but I had been wondering about what they were up to and their quality. What would you say about their sticker, started fuzzy fair maybe with a clear sticker/tape over the top to seal it or what?
Good point. I never really bothered with the game on my VB back in the 90s as I had Panic Bomber on J-SCD for the Duo, and most recently until I sold it on a Neo Geo MVS cart. Now I just have the VB release which despite the lack of many colors I find better on this anyway.
And yeah 3D Tetris is like that 3D blockout game from like 30-35 years ago. Even the Tetris company had their own kind of a play on it too Welltris though that fell down the sides and wasn’t a 3D floating block to the center. So that one would be like the father in design since the next logical step would not be the wall on a well but 3D blocks within it instead.
Golf on the VB I forgot to note, T&E Soft made it, and that game is just them again re-using their game golf engine that they have used 3x on the SNES (Waialae Golf, Pebble Beach, and Wicked 13 Golf) and also again Waialae Golf for N64 and 2 more only in Japan around Augusta. Each uses the same engine and they’re all unofficially as such part of the same series.
And Vertical Force, never really see it come up, but you have to be blind not to notice that it’s designed just like the original Star Soldier game also by Hudson. Both vertical shooters, both of them have your fighter play on 2 playing fields high and low, and with kind of similar weaponry and ship designs too for the franchise (of star soldier.)
I have to admit I’d be willing to sell my flashboy plus off to pay for one of these but I wish there was more firm info but understandably that just can’t happen now.
If not epoxy also loctite makes recent years a super glue gel. It does not run or cause super glue haze. Works with basically any material. Sets in minutes solid in 30 says the package and a day to cure but 30min seems all it needs. Squeeze that around the inside where it caved once you have it flush and leave it until it sets and problem solved. I’ve fixed so much stuff with it even beyond what super glue liquid could ever do.
