I think that one only has about 20mm of the thin area and full length is about 50mm – the thick area won’t fit in the hole which is about 48mm deep.

Here’s a longer version:
http://www.classicgamesource.com/proddetail.php?prod=309589004&cat=100&PHPSESSID=45548ee98830ed1d9a399934398dc4c4

I’m not sure it fits without modification either though.

If you grind the edges off and make a trace on the top of the gamebit you can use a plain screwdriver to twist the bit.

You could perhaps use a regulated 5V source and connect it to the 5V and GND of the controller connector or inside the controller, there’s a schematic here:
http://www.goliathindustries.com/vb/VBDiagrams.html

And see if you get any life out of it before you strip the whole thing down.

How does your “Powerboy” look?

You should build a link-cable then…

As you have stay still anyway you might as well run it from a wall outlet – as long as you keep your kids away from tripping on the wire and your not prone to power dropouts you can play for hours and hours without risking your new high scores by having to change the batteries…

I thought of making a batter holder on my AC/DC adapter so I’ll had a battery back-up if I lost power. With a few components there as well I’d be safe from kids and any power dropouts – not that it happens more than once every year or so…

OK, I guess you have one of those plain glass-tube fuses, they’re usually only a few Eurocents as well.

How many amps could it take then? There are also slow and fast fuses…

Again, you should thank Nintendo, the fuse would probably have been more expensive to replace than the resistor.

Don’t do that mistake again, you might not be so lucky next time. 😉

I have yet to buy a replacement fuse for mine since my last mistake, I think one of those Fluke-fuses are about €10 or something like that.

I try to beat him…

… but not all games are that fun so I’ll settle for just getting a score so I’ll get my 5 points per available game variation. 😉

When a multimeter is set to measure voltage is has a very high resistance – so it doesn’t draw much current when you measure. When measuring current it has very low resistance, and… well you can figure it out for yourself. Be glad then that Nintendo choose to put a resistor there or you could have damaged your multimeter in case it has no fuse.

Yes, you should be able to hear a hum from the oscillating mirrors if you have power in the VB.

I’m probably the culprit there taking places after Chris on many games and raising his score from 5 to 10 on all of them.

If you had the multimeter set to measure the current and measured over the two connectors of the battery pack it’s guaranteed that you have overloaded it. But there’s usually a fuse in the multimeter that blows if you do that…

Have you tried running it with both batteries and AC/DC-power?

Do you have a regulator to replace it with?

Did you order a long enough gamebit to reach the screws in the deepest holes – otherwise it would probably be quicker to modify a screwdriver than to grind off the hex-shaped area of a too short gamebit…

It’s perhaps not related to quality but the accuracy of the printed value. I believe the one you soldered in was a 5% resistor, so somewhere in the area 0,95 – 1,05 ohms whereas the original was between 0,80 – 1,20.

Glad you sorted it out, and interesting to know there’s a resistor in the battery pack.

I’m guessing your indoors-exercise-bike? 😉

It could be, some components only lasts for so long.

You could check the batteries as well of course… But I don’t understand what battery error would cause the resistor to burn.

I have only used plain alkaline batteries in mine before I finished my homemade AC/DC adapter.
http://www.vr32.de/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=9884#forumpost9884

It seems there could be something faulty in your machine. If you exchange the resistor and it blows again you should have it checked out before you try again. I guess you should check it before but it’s perhaps not that easy…

Check that the + and – are well isolated – very high resistance. If there’s a short somewhere it could mean that the resistor is overloaded because of this.

I don’t think the type of batteries are a problem.

EDIT: Send a PM to our VB repair man Johnny Phantom:
http://www.vr32.de/modules/pm/pmlite.php?send2=1&to_userid=1171

I disassembled mine, measured it and also checked it on the first calculator I googled for…
http://www.dannyg.com/examples/res2/resistor.htm

Brown Black Gold and None – that’s 1 ohm +/- 20%…

Mine measured 0,86 ohm, and I have a good Multimeter – Fluke 89IV.

EDIT: Same result if you check the table here:
http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/resistorcalculator.php

Brown
1

Black
0

Gold
x0.1

no third ring means +/- 20%

I guess we have time to get better scores while we wait.

I guess you could, but better to replace it with the same type of resistor, 1 ohm 20% don’t know how many watts it can take though…

[e5frog]

I’m guessing it’s a security measure. You don’t want to be able to draw too much current from the batteries in case something fails in the head unit.

How did you get that part loose?
EDIT: I figured it out there are one “hold-pin” on each side inside the compartment.

It’s very low resistance, only 1 ohm 20%… But it’s probably meant to blow before the batteries starts burning.

• This reply was modified 16 years, 5 months ago by e5frog.