Some pictures would be nice, I have no idea about the prices, I’m guessing you paid a lot less for them?
I’ll make one for myself anyhow, we’ll see what the price ends up at, 25 voters is perhaps not statistically certain but if it’s possible to keep it below $80 at least half of the voters are interested.
I found this browsing through both versions of Vertical Force earlier.
File names?
Attachments:
Not even a sticker, nothing?
It’s not impossible though that the store that sold them in 1995/1996 sealed them before putting them on the shelves, right?
This looked nice, but the shipping is really horrible.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280461538450
How many was sold in this batch?
Perhaps you could take pre-orders for a possible future batch?
But if you run it from a USB-connector wall-adapter that has enough power?
Take off the power adapter or battery pack and run the VB from a USB-power-source (not your computer) – an extra feature there. Slap on a 5m USB-extension cord and you have enough length as well…
If you have a FlashBoy it’s a cheaper solution than running from batteries or buying an official AC/DC-adapter.
No answer on this one for so long?
Yes, there are a Japanese and a US rom of both these games.
Regarding the Vertical Force roms, the Japanese is marked 1995/06/16 12:01 and the US is marked 1995/09/22 11:02 in their respective “footer”…
The Red Alarm roms only differs in 2643 bytes… compared to Vertical Force which have 654997 differences. But then it’s enough that the same data is offset just a little and it’s recognized as a difference – perhaps it’s more surprising that about half of it is similar.
Did you finish your label?
I tried scanning Mario’s Tennis, it came out pretty well.
1200 dpi, and a quick template, the US is perhaps more desirable? With “colorize” in PaintShop it’s easy to change colors… I added a nice blue on as well.
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This reply was modified 16 years, 5 months ago by
e5frog.
Few games?
You can put anything on it, even make your own and if new roms are found or made you’re the first ones that can try them…
… few games, there are few games for the Virtual Boy that’s it, it’s about the same for the Fairchild Channel F but a lot more homebrews for the VB.
Screwdriver for the cart?
Buy a bit on eBay or melt the top of a bic pen with a lighter and press it over the screw. 😉
… and the spend your time on a near perfect 3D model of the cart…
Great work!
How about disassembly, any news on that? 😉
I’m used to the poll option being inside where you write your message, but I didn’t see any so I guessed there was none, but then I remembered seeing a poll somewhere and I also notice the POLL-button that I hadn’t seen before – after I registered at misterpoll and made my poll. 😉
It looks like half of the people that have voted so far won’t be able to buy one…
I’m also considering using a 16Mbit ram, µP and a large 512Mbit serial eprom…. It might be cheaper, requires a lot of I/O pins on the µP though. Same type that the FlashBoy has would probably work. Replacing the USB interface with a serial eprom reading code should be quite basic.
How cool would it be having a FlashBoy with a serial eprom holding all cart eproms and an array of dip chips… If set to all zeroes it could work as an ordinary FlashBoy and if set to anything else the corresponding data would load… Throw in a non volatile ram there as well and you would never ever need any other cartridge – ever.
KR155E wrote:
BTW, efrog, you could’ve used the edit function to append to your previous post. Makes it easier to browse the thread with less big boxes. 😉
I noticed too late, and there’s no delete function so I couldn’t repair my mistake. 😉
The openings of the holes on this connector are larger, so the 1,4mm vertical spacing as you say seems to be no problem. I haven’t noticed any bending, neither any problems using regular carts.
Perhaps this one isn’t the best, cheapest or easiest way to go since you have to modify it slightly to make it work well.
It works for me, but a FlashBoy is still the best way to go if you want to be able to play any available game. If you can afford it that is.
How about CNC:ing molds instead, to mold new cart shell halves? 😉
I was merely testing if it would work and it seems like it’s possible. It would be fun to make a prototype of it and see if it would work… I guess no one can say for sure it doesn’t work unless it’s tested… Of course a PCB that also looks good – and not just is working – gives certain pleasure as well.
I have checked a few trace/current/width calculators and I wonder if it’s really true you can pull 300mA at 5V on a 1oz thick copper trace that’s 7mil wide with less than 10 degrees Celsius temperature increase? I’m no expert either even though I work with it professionally, I mostly make very small stuff…
Since there’s probably no way I could start making these within several months from now, for economic reasons, I had also hoped for some pre-payments of a future Multi-Cart so I could buy real parts and make it happen, first a prototype and when it’s working – a batch of carts. I’ve used that approach for when I made the Pac-Man cart for Channel F and also the Channel F Multi-Cart. It’s great when people don’t mind waiting and help make it happen by supporting with payments in advance.
Anyway…
Yes, it’s auto routed, routing some 300-400 points manually would probably take me a few days with Eagle where it’s a little tricky keeping traces that moves in different directions parallel, and as I’m at home with a 2-year-old… well you can figure it out.
I guess I should read the datasheets for both HY6264 and the Fe-RAM better and see what differs. My impression was a rather wide compatibility as they’re meant to be a “drop-in” replacement for plain sram (with battery backup).
I had a hunch it would be too easy with just a Fe-RAM and an eprom (or array thereof) – and other necessary components.
If you know, please share.
And it’s not “fixable”?
Electronics are a wonderful thing, I was trying to figure out why the 5516:s rams I found wouldn’t work where I usually used 6116:s – I never figured it out and stayed with the 6116:s.
Well, it depends what they do with the etched away copper and chemicals if it’s environmentally friendly. If you really want to think about the environment I guess the best thing to do would be to go out in the woods, naked, lay down on the ground and wait until you starve to death and let the animals of the forest feast on you… 😉 😉 😉
I could just do this to both layers:
Attachments:
Could we perhaps supply you with new levels?
A 32×18 grid of ascii? . $ and start position x and E for enemy/ies?
Or how have you set up the current level?
And what’s the back story?
You’re a burglar trying to break into all safes in a whole neighborhood in one night. But to get in you have to disconnect the alarm system before you can safely break into the safe (holding A or B) but beware…
… the law will hear you breaking in and if you’re not quick enough they’ll catch up to you.
Remember to disconnect the alarm system before trying to get the loot or the law will be there to haul your sorry ass to jail!
Have fun!
Perhaps there are also (not yet dumped) different software versions – without the bug?
I doubt it too, but it would be interesting to make sure.




