From looking at the VIP docs, there seems to be a way to actually synchronize the two systems at the “scanner” (LED display) level over the link port (5-28-1 “Synchronizing Multiple Systems”; See also 4-4-13ff).
I’ve been meaning to ask DogP if he has ever found a link port pin that matches the “FCLK” signal in the scanner (I think this is the optical interrupter on the oscillating mirror) since his cable/software doesn’t seem to take advantage(?) of this functionality.
Of course, it would probably just add complexity to trying to “interweb-enable” a game; especially since it doesn’t seem necessary… Still, it would be nice to know. *wink, wink, nudge, nudge* 😉
Correction: You have joined the Virtual Boy dregs!
Look to the left. Count the stars under your name. Now read what it says above those stars. You are one-star, newbie scum, and don’t you forget it! >:(
Nah, I’m just kiddin’. You’re good people. Welcome to the community, Faze! 🙂
I use Opera 9.24, and I don’t go through the front page (I bookmarked the news page) so it isn’t the same problem, but could be related to it or to the hack.
Sometimes, with these self-tapping screws in ABS, I find that tightening it ever so slightly can make it easier to loosen. Just be careful if you try. If it seems already too tight to even budge, don’t do it. But, if it gives a little, it should be easier to loosen.
I’ve also heard of (but not tried) heating the head of the screw so it softens the plastic on the threads a bit. Wherever I heard about it, they used a soldering iron, but that seems like overkill and hard to do w/out melting the case.
I’ve only gotten two screws out of one of my VB’s, and none out of the other. First I tried a dremelled flat-head, then I modified a brass tube. Both of them only lasted through one screw before wearing out… I’m going to try a steel rod, next time. I just need to go slowly, so I don’t remove the steel’s temper.
One idea I had is to use LEDs (however small or large) and a circuit to emulate the driver circuitry (like DogP mentioned) but have each LED point into the end of an optical fiber. The other ends of the fibers would be mounted in a row to simulate the bar.
You could use larger (through-hole) LEDs, which would be cheaper, but then it would not likely fit inside the stock shell. Someone’s always putting a large lot of T1 (3mm diameter) LEDs on eBay.
One good thing is that, since you can attach more than one fiber to an LED, and since the VB selects between the two identical arrays with a single wire, one set of 224 LEDs and driver chips could be shared between the two displays.
If you did fit it into the case, you’d have to paint everything but the ends of the fibers black, so there’s no light leakage. And whatever you did, you’d have to remove (replace?) the red lenses.
My other plan involves using 224 pixels from a monochrome LCD with the set of fibers. The backlight for the LCD would determine the color/brightness.
i have a box of carts for that, so you don’t have to. but i think we’ll offer several options.
a) complete set
b) you send in a cart to modify (cheaper, but shipping cost would kill that advantage, so i am trying to get large amounts of carts)
c) build-your-own-flashboy kit (only the build and tested board and a sticker to put on the cart, you’ll have to solder a cart connector to it yourself) (cheapest)
How about:
d) advanced build-your-own-flashboy kit (bare board, set of parts, and label sticker PDF) (even cheaper… like $10? *dreams* 😛 )
For those who can solder but are too lazy to etch a PCB (and are long-lost friends of one of the developers ;-))
(No, I still haven’t made a flash cart… 😐 🙁 *ashamed*)
WOOT! I got a driver that works and both LC and anaglyph glasses work great! So far I’ve only tried “Extreme-G2” in shutter mode, and it had a bit of ghosting, but otherwise r0xx0rz. I’m going to try anaglyph and my other pair of LC’s (the wireless ones) and probably increase the gamma. I’m also going to try a Direct3D Quake II port, but I haven’t had luck w/ that so far…
If anyone knows of a fun game that runs on a PIII 450 + 64MB GeForce2 MX, let me know! I’m especially interested in futuristic racing, space fighter combat, and anything else that’s fast and has a lot of inherent depth, but I’ll consider any recommendations.
