Everytime a Virtual Boy game is made, an angel gets its wings :p
Great work!

Hey this is so cool! Thanks for posting this here, always a huge bonus for documenting things 🙂
That racing games looks cool as heck! Man I hope a proto surfaces someday, would love to play an outrun style game like that on the VB.

Whoa, did Castlemania go out of business?

Yeah, looks like you cannot get them anywhere I can find :/

I know Furrtek open sourced it. I was going to work on a kit for resale but then Furrtek became really hard to get a hold of (like, waiting >year now lol). I might dive into making this available after I release the Virtual Juice, if no one has done it by then.

Bump for more infos

Hi Scotty, welcome to the forum!

>>Strangely, both LEDs have issues when they are both plugged in.>> it may seem strange, but they actually share a lot of pins on the data bus (they both have matching shift registers). So this is common behavior if one is faulty.

Are you sure you measured the right spot? There is supposed to be a bridge when you move that red box one pin over. But not where it currently is.

>>What causes a bridge to occur when the system is turned on? >>
floating data bus, intermittent connection, crappy 25 year old melted ribbon cable… 😉

>>What should my next course of action be?>>
Maybe buy a Virtual Ribbon? 😛
https://segasonicfan.wixsite.com/retro/virtual-ribbon

Yep, Im gonna some of those tests, much to do! 🙂

retro code preservation is very, very sexy. Looking forward to this awesome write-up!
I also archived in the epic Wayback Machine:

https://web.archive.org/web/20230201012209/https://medium.com/@pizzarollsroyce/porting-virtual-boy-wario-land-to-the-game-boy-advance-d7a3c8c1fb7

Hey, sorry this upgrade isn’t working for ya. There are a lot of variables I cover in my install video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTYOS5VwIDw), however, let me also ask:

1. Can you show close-up pics of your install?
2. How many years of SMD soldering experience do you have (suggested 10+ years in the video). Do you have all the tools from the video?
3. Did you use NC-559 flux?
4. Did you test continuity across the ribbon from VB motherboard to the small pitch eye connector?

For most people, I *highly* recommend the install service:
https://stoneagegamer.com/installation-service-virtual-ribbon-hardware-kit-mail-in-service.html

-SSF

Thanks! 🙂 Also made a fun promo here:

Attachments:

1. 

   virtual-juice-pen-art-web-small.jpg
   

Interested! Any pics? 🙂
We need more Virtual Girl stuff!

[segasonicfan]

• This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by segasonicfan.
• This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by segasonicfan.

[segasonicfan]

Hi, I had this exact issue before.

First, this is normal operation if the mirrors are not working properly. The virtual boy has a detect signal to check if the oscillation for the mirror induction motor is operating properly. If it isn’t, the system will not boot an image. I imagine this was done to prevent headaches and health issues.

First thing you want to do is swap the left and right side on the motor controller board. That way you can see if the problem is the mirror / motor assembly on one side, or the motor controller itself that is the issue.

If it’s the motor controller, obviously you can replace that. Or you can double check the green wiring which has a pretty janky connector that can give issues.

If the issue moves when you swap connectors, then you know it’s your mirror assembly. Move on to the next step:

There is a photo interrupter/optical coupler that a plastic bit in the mirror slides through many times a second to produce a successful signal. Make sure that that piece is thoroughly cleaned with alcohol and doesn’t have any debris in it, as that can cause this issue since it blocks the optics from communicate with each other. You can also try replacing it, I’ve attached an image to show you what they look like.

Failing that, I would try slightly bending the green cable from the motor controller board to see if that has any effect. Beyond that, you might have to replace the mirror motor assembly as I don’t know the way those can be repaired since they are highly calibrated. You can order yourself a Virtual Tap and turn it into a home console as well…

• This reply was modified 3 years ago by segasonicfan.
• This reply was modified 3 years ago by segasonicfan.

Attachments:

1. 

   s-l1600.jpg
   

This is pretty unusual, but normal common sense suggests trying a different controller if you have one.

Aside from that, the next step is to check the power. Make sure it’s getting 5 V.

Next step after that is a little harder, you’ll have to check the data signals and see the clock pulses are working correctly. If you don’t have an oscilloscope, that will be kind of difficult though.

If you get to step three, I would suggest sending it in for a repair.

– SSF

cool, thanks for the info! 🙂

Unfortunately, none of the homebrew fixes really last. I tried them myself, and would’ve been happy to go that route instead of designing the Virtual Ribbon. Sadly, there was no other option for a permanent repair.

I do have some older prototype boards set aside for very low income folks. I know what it’s like to have a super tight budget and I can help ya out if you need.

Whatever you do, DONT put your virtual boy in an oven or under a blow dryer/hot air though.

video can be lofi…not like any camera would be a match for the red blur, anyway!

I would start with checking the voltage regulator DC-DC (the black epoxy board sticking out). See if you have a steady 5v.
Next, visually inspect for any liquid damage, then start diode checking VRAM…

Does anyone have a link to a video or a photograph for those of us without the flash cart? 🙂

>>Like how much experience as a game dev does someone have to have to understand the hardware and write that in 6 weeks?>>

A: juuuuust enough to be worshiped ^_^

[segasonicfan]

Just shipped out a bunch of repaired units! 🙂

• This reply was modified 3 years, 4 months ago by segasonicfan.

Attachments:

1. 

   santa-vb-1-copy.jpg