This is such a cool idea for a reprogrammable cart

It doesn’t take balls release a rom under a temp account. Just disrespect.

I like that it’s out there, I was just hoping in the end it would be a sanctioned release (not that the creator has been around lately anyway..)

That was an awesome idea.

Happy Halloween!

I’d like to instead thank “Anonymous” for creating the game, and Benjamin Stevens for funding the project.

F’in eh

Finally, FINALLY got my hands on one of these things. Always had a thing for small CRT TV’s, this is a TV is obviously the culmination of that interest.

It’s the Panasonic CT-101, and it’s got the honor of being the worlds smallest color CRT Television. It has a 1.5″ screen.

These things are hard as hell to find it seems, but finally I got one!

Had to play some SNES on it. The Super Gameboy picture was for the irony of playing on a smaller TV then the gameboy screen.

Pictures don’t do this thing justice, it looks pretty damn good in person

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Flashboy is 2MB (16Mbit)
HF is 4MB (32Mbit)

Wow, I had NO idea this was going to be in there. Fuckin eh Nintendo!

I’m actually in the same boat as you..as first I had a ok it’s kinda cool but not enough to get it attitude, but now I actually wanna get this game.

Ha! From what I remember you’re not too far away, come over and have a dab =P

If you like that there’s another easter egg in that same picture. Zoom in, top right, next to the Bowser amiibo. Might be a Power-up shroom themed something 😉

12MB? This will need to be trimmed to flash to the upcoming flash carts. It should be 4MB or 32Mbit.

Edit: Looking at discord theres a raw dump file and a trimmed file. So…nevermind.

Lester Knight wrote:
If anyone has a simple plug-n-play Windows compatible hardware to dump the HF ROM (that would function correctly the 1st time — I’ve no wish to make a project of this) and would like to make it available, I would be more than happy to dump and release my cart. It’s been long enough.

I’ve got a copy of the original rom file. I’ve also got a dump I made from my cart with Kevins cart flasher/dumper, although I recall that one being an overdump. Not hard to trim, and I know it works as I use it for 2 player HF as I only have the one legit cart.

I’m all for making it public too, just don’t want to step on anyones toes/make anyone angry.

Lol, just came to post the same thing.

While I generally don’t like the “Big Youtuber plays Virtual Boy and shits on it” videos, I like how they were set up with some of the cool stuff, and even mentioned the website here. (although one of the VB’s is broken and w/o eye shade? Seems like an easy thing to test/acquire before doing the video)

HF is 32Mbit

This is awesome, excited to see the finished consolized VB’s people are working on 🙂

Good job! I’m glad to hear that patch worked a charm.

It does look like it could be a display problem.. If you’re good at fine soldering you could try soldering your ribbon cable in place of where that glue is holding on the display piece. You have to ‘scrape’ a bit of the insulated coating off the ribbon cable on that end.

nmalinoski wrote:
Sounds like it needs a more comprehensive mod with its own amp or a DAC.

Exactly. I’ve done other speaker replacement mods without adding a different amp with decent results. These results…are not worth it, lol.
Just warning people, I’ve already wasted the time so you don’t have to!

speedyink wrote:
That’s funny, my plan tonight is to upgrade the speaker in mine to something less…..piezo electric speaker like.

Turns out, waste of time. The amp itself sucks balls so no matter what speaker you wire in, it still distorts at the high volume. I mean maybe it overall sounds sliiiightly better, but not really noticeable. I suppose it’s an easy project, but I wouldn’t say it’s worth it unless you wire up a new amp system or something. I wasted more time then usual cause I thought it was a rattle, but eventually I used it while still apart to find it was actually distorting. Trying two other speakers also resulted in the same thing. Guess the whole endeavor turned into just for the name of science.

While I’m leaving the new speaker in, I do not recommend this mod.

Definitely fun! Whenever I see those they remind me of E.T.
I mean, I remember playing with one at some kids house in elementary school. At the time, though, I was all like, how is this supposed to win my attention over Nintendo?

That’s funny, my plan tonight is to upgrade the speaker in mine to something less…..piezo electric speaker like.

Started collecting a bit recently, something I’ve been wanting to get into.

Levine91 wrote:

I mean… I’d buy either one of those (the GB one or the Mega Man one) if I knew the sound was decent and the gameplay is fine)

EDIT – Especially if the sound on Pokemon wasn’t glitchy. I’d fork over cash for a fancy collection with RBY + GS

It would play exactly as it would if you made the GB emulator rom for yourself. This guys cart isn’t doing anything special.

I found this old post from someone else with a faulty regulator board.
https://www.newark.com/nxp/nx1117c50z-115/ldo-fixed-5v-1a-sot-223-4/dp/66W5705

DogP has a very insightful post in here:
“FYI, the regulator isn’t a standard part… it’s a custom switching regulator board that Nintendo made. If you’re good with electronics, you should be able to replace it with a standard 5V regulator, like a 7805, though I’d recommend using a 9V AC adapter with that kind of regulator, because it brings the voltage down to 5V by wasting the extra power as heat.

This will kill batteries faster, and a 7805 will typically stop regulating at ~7V, so it won’t be able to suck the last of the batteries dry. Also, it’ll get really hot if you use too high voltage of an AC adapter (like 12V or more).

If you have a good electronics store, you could pick up a LDO regulator, like the LM1086, which would regulate with a lower input voltage (probably down below 6V), so you could use a 6V adapter, which would reduce the amount of heat.

I don’t know if the original caps on the motherboard are sufficient/compatible for linear regulators, so you may need to install two caps with the regulator (look at the datasheet).

Anyway, the pinout of the Nintendo regulator is:

1-Vin
2-GND
3-PowerGood
4-missing
5-Vout
6-GND

You may be able to tie PowerGood to 5V (Vout), though it may need a delay, since the purpose of it is to hold the system in reset until the power is stable.

You should also verify that the regulator is actually bad… measure the voltage at Vin with the controller on… it should be the same voltage as coming out of the controller. Then measure the voltage of Vout… it should be 5V, if it’s not, your regulator is probably bad, or something is shorted on the board and overloading the regulator. There should also be a small red LED lit on the regulator when it’s on.

DogP”