did you put them back on really tight? i notice that plastic swells a bit in hot weather, so i tend to put screws on snug, but not tight.
try shining a flash light down there and take a look at the head. is it stripped in any way? if you have at least 2 good sides, across from each other, you can notch out a flat head screw driver and use that to get it out. i got my screw driver at a cheap .99 chinese store. it is small enough to fit and cheap enough that i don’t mind cutting a notch in it. perhaps you have a similar store in Mexico.
drilling it or using a stripped screw recovery kit may be risky, i’m not sure how all that work would affect the vb. assuming you are able to get it out, run to the hardware store and pick up pan phil sheet metal screws #4 x 1/2″ plated. they are a perfect match. just make sure you get plated not stainless steel, as stainless is not magnetic.
if you want to make the install easier, consider picking up a screw driver magnetizer.
here are some links for the products i used to help me replace my security screws:
replacement screws: http://www.grattanfasteners.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=065003&Category=9442bbcb-92a2-4178-b89e-6e8e0efa0cd2
it is nice to see this finally get released. 25 lucky collectors will surely enjoy this. after it sells out will the manual and hint book be made available to the community?
5 for $17.99 buy-it-now, free shipping.
this is about the average cost of these things on ebay. the free shipping makes it slightly more affordable than other auctions.
Brand new copy of the Japanese Galactic Pinball pulled from an new-old stock shipping box. $23.66 buy-it-now.
Same thing but for Teleroboxer
FB+ currently at $123. I’m upset about this one because the seller described it as being so rare that its impossible to find.
i am not a collector, i am a gamer. for me, this means that i have no desire to own the reproduction box or other materials that come along with it. i am aware that completed they do make a really nice package. i probably would enjoy owning them, but after thumbing through the manual, the set would go in a drawer and not see the light of day for years. in these regards, i also feel the reproduction package is highly priced, because i would be buying something i couldn’t fully appreciate.
i would like it if a reduced cost cart only option was offered at some point. perhaps a PDF of the manual/hint books could be offered via e-mail to those that purchase a cart only solution?
the future of vb reproductions is looking bright, and it would be great if that future offered something for every type of gamer.
a bit late for this reply…
with a new battery (my 3rd) the cart seems to be saving fine. i had wario land on there months ago, enjoyed it, then flashed a different game. lastnight i flashed wario back and my old save is still there. right now i’m blaming the battery and extreme heat combination for my issues. i’ll continue to test with this battery throughout the year and see what happens.
It is a 1:1 cartridge emulator. It is the same team behind the Crown 3DS. They originally built a clone of Splinter Cell and were unable to meet their deadline to make it run other ROMs. The name of their team and product became intertwined with conspiracy and illegitimacy. Eventually they figured out how to build an adapter between the chip and the microSD card. They changed their name (we know this because the same person registered both domains, among other info that has surfaced) and marketed the Gateway 3DS.
The Gateway 3DS can run 1 game at a time. Each game must be on its own microSD card, sized larger than the actual ROM. There will be no loader of any kind. The device does not allow developers to sign their own code, which means there will never be Homebrew of any sort with this solution. The device is also region locked, as the 3DS will read it as an actual game cart. This means you will not be able to play any 3DS game hacks, translations, or ROMs from other regions. Gateway 3DS themselves recommends that you do not play online games. So far there is no evidence that Nintendo can block 3DS systems from going online, but they were able to do it with the Wii.
This is 100% a device for piracy on the 3DS and has absolutely no other usage. Priced at $80.
there is currently no publicly known way to execute homebrew code on the 3ds. rumored unreleased hacks exist but there is no sdk or 3ds tools at all. so my question is how are you going to get the code to run in 3ds-mode?
from what i have seen, the interest in vb development is mostly limited to this single forum. unless their was a selection of 2-player software ready for the cable, i do not think there will be very much interest in the cable beyond this community.
i would love to play some 2-player games but i do not know a single person who has a vb, and even fewer who have ever played one.
jumpman wrote:
… would also be showing the public one of their past “Failures”, and Nintendo’s pride/ego are way to BIG to allow that to happen.
when i was researching for my VB review, i read a story that Gunpei Yokoi was shamed for more than a year after its release. They all saw it as a failure and would purposely make him demo it to executives to embarrass him. As much as it is asked, I do not think Nintendo will ever release VB games on the 3DS.
however, a company recently published a video of a 1:1 3ds game clone that can boot ROMs off a msd card. there are also known exploits for the 3ds, none of which have been published. it isn’t a matter of if we will see a VB emu, its more like when.
i love how this community has been revived the past few months. thank you for all of your hard work thunderstruck. i had always dreamed of a day when all of the ROMs were translated. we are well on our way.
a thin black line or a glitch in the graphics? i’m currently trying to figure out what causes the black lines in my display. i know it isn’t my display cables because they were recently soldered.
give this a read: http://www.projectvb.com/displayfix.html
if that is your issue, there are a few people on here who can make a permanent solder repair for you. you can also try heating the glue via multiple methods, a small toaster oven probably being the most popular.
I’ll give that a try. In case it isn’t the LED can you point out to me the optics on the display assembly?
Thanks!
What is the best way to clean the mirrors? I’m getting black lines that I assume are dust on the mirrors. They are noticeable on solid red backgrounds. I’m seeing more in the left eye, so that would be the right mirror?
I tried to gently rub them down with a Q-tip but it didn’t seem to work very well. Compressed air didn’t seem to help much, the particles I see on there are stuck. I’m also afraid to really shoot them with the compressed air for fear I may break something.
I did clean out the red lenses so I am assuming these lines are dust particles on the mirrors.
i picked up a tool to magnetize my driver. i also picked up some gratan pan phil #4×1/2″ plated sheet metal screws. after installing the newly repaired ribbon cables, i carefully cleaned the mirrors with a q-tip and some compressed air. i then reassembled my vb and started to notice things i never saw before. like the background of the bound high title screen and the lines on the “mario tennis” title. which, naturally, made me think it was related to the cables. LOL. this past year of glitch has made me ultra paranoid and observant.
i did have to open up my vb twice and pull out the cables a fraction of a mm, as dogp suggested.
dogp: i can’t thank you enough. my vb can’t thank you enough.
cheers!
These are the screws I grabbed today: http://www.grattanfasteners.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=065003&Category=9442bbcb-92a2-4178-b89e-6e8e0efa0cd2
I also picked up a General Tools Precision Magnetizer and Demagnetizer: http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100137914?productId=100137914&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=100137914&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-100137914&ci_gpa=pla#.UaVrQ9K-rZ4
The screws are a perfect match. They went in as smooth as the originals. The magnetizer works great on the gamebit as well, which is something to consider for those who wish to use the original security screws.
i do not own a vectrex, and i wish i did, so i’m not really up on what has been reproduced. i was always hoping to see a full set of overlays as it seems those would be in much higher demand than the color wheels.
what is your plan to get the word out to the select few that have a working 3d imager? as for the price, i would try to keep them affordable for those in the community. however, considering the cost of the 3D imager and its games, dropping $100 on both color wheels might not be that far fetched.
-another world
I picked up #4 1/2″ sheet metal screws today. I grabbed them because they have a pan head which makes them flat on the underside like the original VB screws. After I got home I realized they are stainless steel, so they won’t work with my magnetic driver. I’m not even sure what will work, the store only had those and zinc screws. I’ll have to go back check.
The reason for this reply was to say thank you to Guy Perfect who was 100% correct. The #4 1/2″ screws are the right thread count, size, etc. They are the screws you’ll want if you are going to replace your security screws.
if you have the clip from the top of the stand you can connect a few different things to it. there are some posts here using light fixtures from IKEA. without the clip you would need to fabricate something that hold it. without getting to crazy, why not look for just the clip on ebay?
also, consider buying a broken stand and then buying the medallion repair kit. http://www.planetvb.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=4984&forum=3
to place an item for “months” you’ll need an eBay store, the cost of that subscription is going to kill your profits. instead you would need to relist it each week, the problem with that is watchers may not realize. it would probably end up selling to someone who logged in that week looking to pick up the item you just happened to relist.
$100 is more what i think this cart will bring. i’ve seen similar unboxed copies sell for right around that. $200 seems more like an impulse buy to me. If someone has a box sitting around then perhaps they would pay a bit more knowing full well that they could ask $250+ in a retail setting.
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This reply was modified 13 years, 2 months ago by
Lester Knight.